Find your harmony at Uonuma’s finest retreat, “Satoyama Jujo.” Detox your mind under starry skies and savor the gentle flavors of fermented cuisine.

Hello, fellow travel lovers!

This time, I spent two nights and three days at the popular inn “Satoyama Jujo” in Minami-Uonuma, Niigata — a journey to relax and reset.

Wholesome cuisine for the body, soothing baths for the soul, and even… pajamas that feel kind to your skin!?

What does it mean to be a “body-friendly” inn?

A unique atmosphere that blends a renovated traditional farmhouse with the elegance of a design hotel.

Despite being a traditional farmhouse, it has earned a Michelin star!

The koi fish at the entrance seem to greet you with a warm “Welcome home,” instantly putting you at ease.

Step inside, and you’re greeted by a massive wooden mallet on display!

And right beneath it stands a tiny Daikokuten, the god of fortune, holding it up with a smile!

Now that’s what I call farmhouse art!?

A welcome drink to start things off.

You could choose between tea or beer — I didn’t hesitate and went straight for the beer!

That cold draft beer was absolutely perfect!

The homemade pound cake had such a gentle, comforting flavor.

Room introduction

After checking in, this was the room I was guided to.

A raised tatami platform holds a bed mattress, topped with a light and fluffy comforter.

And the pajamas, made from natural cotton, feel incredibly soft against the skin!

There were three chairs and three pairs of sandals on the balcony—one for each guest.

To the left is a small open-air bath — or rather, a little tub tucked in at the edge of the balcony (haha).

I ended up not using it during my stay.

The view from the balcony.

Refrigerator and tea corner

A corner with a refrigerator, coffee machine, and an electric kettle that looks just like a traditional iron teapot—so stylish!

Everything in the refrigerator is complimentary, with beers and juices prepared for each guest.

Fermentation tour and bonfire space

Before dinner, guests can join a fermentation tour to see the fermented and preserved foods used at the inn.

At this time of year, blessed with the bounty of autumn, plenty of fresh ingredients make their way to the table.

Mushrooms, pickled plums, rakkyo (pickled shallots), even mamushi liquor—it looked just like a witch’s laboratory!

They also have a yukimuro—a natural snow cellar used for preservation—but it was, unfortunately, empty this time.

After the tour, we warmed up by the bonfire and toasted with a cup of hot wine.

By mid-October, the satoyama countryside was already wrapped in the crisp air of autumn.

After the tour, stepping back inside, the warmth of the wood stove by the entrance seeped deep into my bones.

Inside the inn, everyone goes barefoot—or rather, in cozy socks.

Inside the inn, it’s customary to spend your time in socks.

The hallways are lined with tatami, giving off a cozy, at-home feeling.

An open-air bath where it feels like the stars might just fall from the sky.

The open-air bath was at the perfect temperature—so comfortable I could’ve soaked forever.

The night sky was filled with countless stars, so breathtaking I almost shouted, “The stars are falling!”

I soaked for a long while, gazing up at the starry sky.

Amenities and an eco-friendly spirit

All the amenities are nature-inspired.

A bamboo-and-boar-bristle toothbrush designed with the environment in mind (available at the shop for 1,000 yen).

The face towel with a small tag is yours to take home.

However, taking two sets for a consecutive stay wasn’t allowed—a small disappointment, especially since there’s no discount for extended stays.

Bath towels and body towels, however, cannot be taken home.

Lounge and the free-drink heaven

There are two lounges: one on the mezzanine level with stunning exposed beams, and another near the shop. This mezzanine lounge is where you can truly feel the charm of the old farmhouse atmosphere.

I went there after dinner, so I was too full to try anything—what a shame!

And here’s the lineup at the lounge next to the shop!

They offer Häagen-Dazs ice cream, rice crackers, local beer, and sake—all complimentary.

The only problem is, before or after meals, there’s hardly any room left to enjoy them… haha.

The joy of a paired dinner experience

Dinner features a fermentation-themed course centered around seasonal vegetables.

On the first night, I chose the pairing option with alcohol—and it was absolutely luxurious!

Both sake and wine were served in abundance, and before long, I was happily mixing them all together.
You’ll definitely get pretty tipsy (haha).

And then came dessert. The rice I couldn’t finish was kindly made into a salted rice ball for a late-night snack. (;´д｀)

On the second day, I enjoyed a beer in the lounge before dinner and ordered only my favorite sake from the first night, “Abe+,” to go with the meal.

It turned out to be a choice that was kinder to both my body and my wallet.

Breakfast — where rice takes center stage

At breakfast, freshly harvested rice from a special region of Uonuma takes the spotlight.

Dinner rice was delicious too, but the morning rice was on another level.

Glossy, chewy, and naturally sweet—it was the kind of rice you could eat bowl after bowl of.

The miso soup was self-serve—you make it yourself. Fun, but a little bit of work (haha).

The shop

The shop offers the inn’s original fermented foods, along with eco-friendly items like the bamboo toothbrushes and towels provided in the rooms.

They also sell beautifully crafted chairs and leather goods—everything exudes impeccable taste.

Morning stroll and an unexpected encounter with nature?

While strolling around the grounds, I came across private rental houses and a sauna building.

In front of the sauna, there’s even a cold bath and a “relaxation zone” for cooling down—everything you need to complete the full sauna experience!

From the relaxation deck, this was the stunning view!

I was thinking it’d be fun to rent this place next time and come with a big group—when suddenly, right on the path, a huge pile of poop! 💩💩💩

Panicking at the thought of the trending culprit—“A bear?!”—I quickly turned back. Later, when I showed the photo to AI, it said, “Looks like a wild boar.”

Yeah… that’s still plenty scary! (haha)

But maybe it’s exactly because this inn lives in harmony with nature that such special moments are born.

Summary

To be gentle on the body means not only using natural materials, but also embracing a gentler flow of time.

That’s what Satoyama Jujo taught me.

It was a two-night, three-day stay filled with the healing power of fermentation and starlight.

The journey continues... Wishing you all a wonderful trip! – TabiJun
＊＊TabiJun＊＊